PDRN is gaining attention in professional skincare, but can topical formulations deliver the benefits associated with injectable treatments? We explore the science, potential skin benefits and what therapists need to know.
Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) is a DNA-derived ingredient gaining popularity in Korean skincare. Traditionally associated with medical applications and injectable aesthetic treatments, it is now appearing in professional facials, serums and creams.
Research suggests PDRN may support skin repair, hydration and barrier function. But can applying it to the skin deliver the same results as injections?
For beauty therapists and advanced skin practitioners, understanding the difference between scientific evidence, emerging research and marketing claims is essential before incorporating PDRN into treatment protocols.
PDRN skincare: key facts
- What is PDRN? DNA fragments traditionally derived from salmon or trout, investigated for their potential role in tissue repair and skin regeneration.
- Potential benefits: Early research suggests possible improvements in skin repair, elasticity, hydration and barrier function.
- PDRN vs PN: These terms are often used interchangeably, but formulations can differ in molecular size, processing and delivery.
- Professional use: Some products are designed for professional facials, but suitability depends on the formulation and manufacturer's instructions.
- Does it work? Early human studies are promising, but evidence remains limited and product-specific.
What is PDRN in skincare?
PDRN consists of DNA fragments traditionally purified from salmon or trout reproductive tissue. Researchers have investigated its role in tissue repair, inflammation regulation and cellular activity.
Studies suggest PDRN may influence the adenosine A2A receptor, which is involved in regulating inflammation and tissue repair. It may also support cellular activity through the nucleotide salvage pathway.
Much of the initial scientific interest came from wound-healing research. A 2014 randomised, placebo-controlled study involving 216 patients with diabetic foot ulcers found complete healing in 37.3% of patients receiving PDRN, compared with 18.9% receiving placebo after eight weeks.
However, the treatment involved injections, not topical skincare. These findings therefore cannot automatically be applied to cosmetic creams and serums.
Why is PDRN popular in Korean skincare?
PDRN's popularity can be traced to South Korea, where regenerative skin treatments have become increasingly prominent.
“PDRN first gained traction in Korea through the medical aesthetics and dermatology clinic space in the mid-2010s, particularly via injectable skin-booster treatments,” explains Poppy Smith from Pureseoul, a UK-based Korean skincare retailer.
Rejuran, developed by South Korean pharmaceutical company PharmaResearch, helped popularise salmon-derived polynucleotide treatments among consumers seeking improvements in skin quality.
As these treatments gained recognition, skincare manufacturers began incorporating PDRN into creams, ampoules and serums.
“Consumers are becoming increasingly interested in skin longevity, barrier health and low-irritation skincare,” says Smith.
Dr Michael Kim, chief medical officer and executive managing director of medical strategy at PharmaResearch, believes this reflects a wider shift towards prevention and maintenance.
“It’s not just about treating the signs of ageing or the symptoms we see, but moving into prevention and thinking about the skin’s healthy function, resilience and appearance,” he says.
For therapists, the important consideration is supporting long-term skin health through consistent, age-appropriate skincare and professional assessment.
PDRN vs polynucleotides: what's the difference?
Although PDRN and polynucleotides (PN) are frequently used interchangeably in beauty marketing, they are not necessarily identical.
Within PharmaResearch's portfolio, injectable PN is described as having longer, higher-molecular-weight DNA fragments, while its cosmetic PDRN uses shorter fragments.
“PDRN is a shorter fragment, and this is what is in the cosmeceuticals,” explains Kim.
However, this distinction relates to the company's own formulations. Molecular weights, sources and processing methods can vary between manufacturers.
Therapists should therefore request product-specific information rather than relying on the ingredient name alone.
How do topical PDRN and injectable treatments compare?
| Consideration | Topical PDRN | Injectable PN |
|---|---|---|
| Delivery | Applied to the skin | Injected into skin tissue |
| Formulations | Serums, creams and concentrates | Injectable aesthetic products |
| Main challenge | Skin penetration and clinical evidence | Practitioner qualifications and injection risks |
| Evidence | Emerging, product-specific research | Separate clinical evidence base |
| Professional use | Formulation and manufacturer guidance | Clinical assessment and relevant regulations |
The two approaches should not be considered interchangeable. Their delivery methods and supporting evidence differ.
Does topical PDRN actually work?
One of the biggest questions surrounding PDRN skincare is whether DNA fragments can penetrate the skin sufficiently to produce meaningful results.
Traditional PDRN molecules are relatively large and negatively charged, making penetration through the skin's protective outer layer challenging.
Manufacturers are investigating smaller DNA fragments and alternative delivery technologies to improve absorption.
Amy Holland-Rathmill, head of sales at Million Dollar Facial, explains that formulation and delivery methods are particularly important when moving from injectable to topical applications.
However, a product's theoretical ability to penetrate the skin does not automatically demonstrate clinical effectiveness.
What does the research say about topical PDRN?
A 2026 study published in PLOS One examined a medium-length PDRN preparation through laboratory research and a 28-day clinical trial.
The randomised, double-blind, split-face study involved 31 women aged 35–55 and compared a 0.1% PDRN-850K eye cream with a 0.1% retinol eye cream.
Results suggested improvements in periocular wrinkles and skin measurements, alongside evidence of PDRN-associated material reaching viable epidermal layers.
However, the research examined one particular formulation over a relatively short period. Further independent human studies are needed to establish whether similar results can be achieved across other topical products.
What are the potential skin benefits of PDRN?
The most promising potential applications concern skin quality, hydration, barrier support and recovery.
Potential areas of interest include:
- Hydration and barrier function: Supporting skin moisture and barrier health.
- Elasticity and fine lines: Investigating improvements in visible signs of ageing.
- Skin texture: Potentially supporting smoother-looking skin.
- Skin recovery: Exploring its role in supporting repair processes.
A 2023 study published in Molecules investigated ginseng-derived PDRN and observed increased activity in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, alongside improvements in barrier-related markers in laboratory and reconstructed skin models.
However, laboratory findings do not necessarily translate into proven clinical benefits in humans. Plant-derived DNA preparations should also not automatically be considered equivalent to conventional fish-derived PDRN.
Similarly, improvements in hydration or skin appearance following the use of a PDRN cream may also be influenced by other ingredients in the formulation.
How should therapists assess PDRN results?
Assessing subtle changes in skin quality can be challenging.
Dr Kim highlights pigmentation, redness, pores, hydration and elasticity as areas where improvements may be difficult to demonstrate through standard photography.
Therapists should consider consistent before-and-after photography, consultation records and professional skin analysis tools to monitor results.
It is equally important to avoid making claims that cannot be supported by the available product evidence.
Can PDRN be used with microneedling?
PDRN is increasingly being positioned alongside professional treatments designed to improve skin quality, particularly microneedling.
Depending on the formulation and approved protocol, certain products may be incorporated into recovery-focused facials or specialist treatment systems.
Lauren Evans, training and development officer at CACI, explains how its needle-free approach combines ultrasonic atomisation, electro-infusion and LED technology with a plant-derived PDRN formulation.
Other professional systems also promote PDRN concentrates alongside microneedling.
However, microneedling itself stimulates skin remodelling. Improvements following a combined treatment cannot automatically be attributed to PDRN without controlled comparative research.
Is PDRN safe to use during microneedling?
Not every PDRN serum is suitable for application to compromised skin.
A cosmetic product designed for intact skin should never automatically be considered appropriate for use through microneedling-created channels.
Sterility, formulation, device compatibility and manufacturer instructions must determine suitability. Practitioners should follow established microneedling safety guidance.
How should therapists recommend PDRN homecare?
PDRN may be easier to introduce into homecare routines than advanced professional protocols.
“I would position PDRN as part of a wider skin-health routine rather than as a single miracle ingredient,” advises Holland-Rathmill.
“Good cleansing, hydration, barrier support and daily SPF should always form the foundation of homecare.”
PDRN-containing products may complement established skincare ingredients such as ceramides, panthenol and hyaluronic acid.
However, therapists should assess the complete formulation and the client's existing routine before making recommendations.
Post-treatment use also requires care. Products suitable for everyday skincare may not be appropriate immediately after microneedling, chemical peels or laser treatments.
Always follow treatment-specific aftercare protocols and manufacturer guidance.
Is PDRN suitable for all skin types?
PDRN products are marketed for different skin types, particularly dehydrated, mature and sensitised skin. However, suitability depends on the complete formulation.
Traditional fish-derived PDRN may not be appropriate for clients with relevant allergies or ethical preferences.
Plant-derived alternatives, including ginseng-based formulations, are also emerging, but should not automatically be considered clinically interchangeable with fish-derived PDRN.
Therapists should check ingredient sources, establish any known sensitivities and assess the client's skin before recommending a product.
Additional caution is appropriate during pregnancy and breastfeeding, when product-specific safety evidence may be limited.
What should therapists look for in a PDRN product?
As more products enter the professional skincare market, therapists need to look beyond marketing claims.
Before introducing PDRN into a treatment or homecare programme, ask suppliers:
- What is the source? Is the PDRN fish-derived, plant-derived or produced through another method?
- What is its molecular profile? Can the manufacturer provide information about fragment size and processing?
- What evidence supports the finished product? Ingredient-level laboratory research does not necessarily prove the effectiveness of a particular serum or cream.
- What is its intended use? Is it designed for intact skin, post-treatment application or a specific professional protocol?
- Is it compatible with the treatment? Confirm suitability before combining it with microneedling or other barrier-disrupting procedures.
- What contraindications apply? Check manufacturer guidance, the complete formulation and the client's consultation history.
Ultimately, the priority is choosing products supported by appropriate evidence and suitable for the individual client.
PDRN skincare FAQs
Is PDRN made from salmon sperm?
Traditional fish-derived PDRN is commonly extracted and purified from salmon or trout reproductive tissue. Alternative sources, including plant-derived DNA fragments, are also being investigated.
Can PDRN skincare replace polynucleotide injections?
No. Topical PDRN and injectable PN treatments use different delivery methods and may contain materials with different molecular characteristics. Evidence supporting injections cannot automatically be applied to cosmetic serums and creams.
Can PDRN be used after microneedling?
Only when the specific product is approved for that purpose and its use is supported by manufacturer guidance and an appropriate treatment protocol. Ordinary cosmetic serums should not automatically be applied to compromised skin.
The verdict: Is PDRN worth incorporating into professional skincare?
PDRN is a promising development in professional skincare, particularly as interest grows in skin longevity, barrier health and regenerative ingredients.
However, evidence from injectable treatments and medical wound-healing applications should not be used to substantiate claims about topical cosmetics.
Emerging human research suggests that certain PDRN formulations may improve aspects of skin quality, but further independent studies are needed to establish their effectiveness across different products and delivery systems.
For beauty therapists and advanced skin practitioners, the priority should be selecting appropriately formulated products, examining manufacturers' evidence and incorporating PDRN into individualised treatment and homecare plans where suitable.
Ultimately, PDRN should be judged on what a particular product can demonstrate, rather than the excitement surrounding the ingredient.
Original article written by Ellen Cummings
