Smoke screen, pollution and skincare

Next to the sun, pollution is the skin’s second biggest environmental aggressor. Fiona Vlemmiks explains how to safeguard clients’ complexions

The harmful impact of pollution is currently one of the beauty industry’s foremost concerns.

With ever-rising levels, pollution cannot be avoided in thriving cities like those in the UAE, but professional brands are now focusing their attention on how best to shield skin, preventing soot, smog, and heavy metals from penetrating it and causing damage.

“Air pollution breaks down collagen and the lipid layer of the skin which impairs skin barrier functions, worsening skin conditions such as eczema and hives, and can even lead to skin cancer,” warns Shaima Tahboub, skincare expert from Luxe House Trading, which distributes Swissline Cosmetics.

Most clients already understand that cleansing rids the skin of surface impurities such as sweat, make-up and dust, yet many don’t realise that atmospheric pollution and pollutants also stick to the skin, become lodged in the pores and damage the cutaneous barrier.

“Air pollution includes tiny particles called PMs, nitrogen dioxide (NO2) and chemicals such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs),” explains Tahboub. “PMs activate multiple pathways of inflammation, some ignite the melanocytes, which create far too much pigment and end up giving you unwanted sun spots. Others result in increased redness and potentially rosacea. When you have too much chronic inflammation, these enzymes remove more collagen than your skin can create. This produces skin laxity, hence fine lines and wrinkles.”

A clean break

Thankfully there are numerous steps we can take to help protect the skin, namely a healthy diet and lifestyle and adopting appropriate skincare routines.

Lavanya Vikram, regional manager at Pro Blush Cosmetics, which distributes the Marzia cosmetic line, says: “It’s important that we cleanse daily, after we wake up and after we return home. We should always remove makeup in the evenings.

“It is important to exfoliate twice a week, at least, to remove toxins from the skin and polish your skin by removing the dead skin, followed by a soothing or purifying mask just to close and tighten the pores.” 

Chloe DeAngelis, global sales manager at Kerstin Florian agrees, adding that cleansing should be followed by the application of serums and SPFs to further bolster the skin. “Serums with high levels of protecting antioxidants and nourishing omega fatty acids are wonderful ways to fortify skin from within to withstand the effects of environmental aggressors, and of course moisturiser with a broad-spectrum SPF is a must to protect the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays,” she says.

Hero products

While professional treatments are essential in enhancing the skin and strengthening it against pollution, clients need to be educated on the importance of a proper daily skin routine, using appropriate products.

“Commercial or synthetic skincare, body care and the wrong cosmetics can worsen the impact that pollution has on skin by not protecting skin from these ageing pathogens and pollutants,” says Rochelle Breedt creative manager at Wellness United on behalf of Esse, the South African probiotic skincare line of professional treatments and products distributed in the region by Wellness United. 

“A complete organic, protective and healing skincare routine using pre-cleanser such as makeup removers, cleanser, toner, moisturiser, oil or serum and a weekly exfoliant and mask is recommended. Clients should start this at around aged 25 rather than later.”

The experts at organic seaweed brand Voya concur. “The right skincare is where protection begins,” says Jacqueline Mellett, marketing executive at Voya, which like Kerstin Florian, partners with the Product house in the UAE.

Certain skincare products can increase the impact of pollution if they contain harmful ingredients such as parabens, phthalates, synthetic colours, SLS, sunscreen chemicals etc. A certified organic skincare range reduces the addition of extra toxins on the skin.”

Seaweed contains key minerals such as magnesium, manganese, calcium, copper, iodine, iron, potassium, phosphorus and zinc as well as vitamins A, B, C, D & E. The latest scientific in-vivo studies from the Shannon Biotechnology Centre in Ireland has proven Voya's seaweed delivers boost in anti-oxidant protection, a key ingredient that can combat the effects of air pollution. It was found that one of Voya’s key seaweeds Fucus Serratus can provide up to 724% greater antioxidant protection compared to no extract.

Many of Swissline’s skincare products contain anti-pollution actives including the Cell Shock White Facial Cleansing Foam,

which removes make-up and pollution residue. It contains a powerful combination of two antioxidant-rich botanicals, centella asiatica and ginkgo biloba,

renowned for their self-healing and revitalising properties.

Another great cleanser is The Kerstin Florian Our Clarifying Mineral Enzyme Cleanser and Probiotic Mineral Tonic, which features in the brand’s Clarifying BioMineral Facial. The product cleanses and tones skin while boosting environmental protection. The minerals and probiotics reinforce the skin’s microbiome and keep it functioning optimally, which in turn fortifies its natural defenses.

Phytomer has developed a range of anti-pollution skincare products to protect and repair skin exposed to the stresses of urban living. The Citylife Face And Eye Contour Sorbet Cream is for tired, polluted and dull skin. This 2-in-1 formula protects and repairs the skin from damage caused by urban pollution: dehydration, signs of fatigue, dark spots and dull complexion. It has a refreshing sorbet texture and intensely moisturises the skin, restoring all its freshness.

Available from the Product House, for a great make-up foundation, all Omorovicza’s Complexion Perfectors have a SPF 20 and give a daily, silicone-free coverage from a physical sun block that contains no chemicals. 

The brand’s Mineral UV Shield SPF 30, which uses an effective combination of mineral sunscreens zinc and titanium oxide, also provides broad spectrum protection without blocking pores or causing irritation.

Marzia’s SPF Medium Protection (SPF 30) and SPF Low Protection (SPF 15) also uses only physical filters titanium dioxide and zinc oxide together

with some great natural ingredients like argan oil, vitamin E and ginseng to enhance the skin.

Meanwhile, its 24 hour Cream has an anti-spot and anti-ageing action and also protects from UV rays.

Going the extra mile, Kerstin Florian’s Correcting Intensive Renewal Glycolic 15 works overnight to exfoliate and refine skin, allowing it to regenerate more efficiently as well as look visibly brighter.

The newest arrival from Esse Probiotic Skincare is the Sensitive Protect Oil. The new oil from Namibia shields sensitive skin from environmental damage and strengthen barrier function for ongoing support. It contains Ximenia oil, 20% of which is a fatty acid called Ximenynic acid. This acid contains a rare triple bond in the carbon chain. When exposed to UV light or free radicals, this triple bond reacts to form a protective polymer. These help to form a protective layer on the skin. Another exceptional property of Ximenia oil is its ability to increase blood flow, delivering nutrients and oxygen more effectively to the skin.

With the correct professional salon and home skin routines, your clients can still enjoy the benefits of city life, without the worry of pollution ravaged skin.