From Huda to Fouz: Is the Middle East the beauty region of the moment?

The Middle Eastern beauty market is expected to reach US$7.8bn by the end of the year, according to global analyst firm Euromonitor International.

The region is witnessing modest growth of just 1% compared to 2017, said to be influenced by the introduction of sales tax in Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Bahrain, Oman, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates (UAE) – following costly military campaigns and a drop in global oil prices.

“The political and economic developments in the region have translated to reduced footfall in stores, less frequent buying by consumers or downgrading,” explains Diana Jarmalaite, analyst at Euromonitor.

“The introduction of expat dependent tax in Saudi Arabia, excise tax and VAT in Saudi Arabia and UAE, and with tax soon to be applied in other GCC countries, means residents are becoming cautious spenders especially towards non-essential goods and services as they expect a further rise in their cost of living.”

That being said, consumers in the Middle East are still big spenders. In particular, UAE residents are the biggest beauty spenders in the region at $289 per capita, compared to the global average of $60 per capita.

Demonstrating that it’s the perfect time for well-established beauty brands in the region to develop consumer trust.

Local pride

Jarmalaite noted that consumers in the region demonstrate a preference for well established global brands, particularly ones with a strong social media presence.

Influencer market insight company Tribe Dynamic’s latest report confirms that in the GCC the top ten brands, in terms of earned digital media value, were nearly all international.

MAC was in the top spot with a generated $6.8m EMV in Q4. The Estée Lauder-owned brand had the largest ambassador community in the region, numbering 258 influencers, far above the global average of 160. MAC also boasted eight posts per influencer, exceeding the region’s average of 6.1.

Superstar beauty influencer @therealfouz (aka Fouz Al Fahad) created content and promoted giveaways surrounding her lipstick collaboration with the brand. The Kuwaiti make-up artist continued to be a top ambassador for the brand internationally, generating $198.1k across 41 posts.

In comparison, Dubai-turned-international brand Huda Beauty came in fourth place at $4.8m. The brand’s EMV was supported by a series of instant hit launches. Nearly 30% ($1.4m) of its EMV stemmed from its #FauxFilter Foundation, while it’s Desert Dusk Eyeshadow Palette generated $1.1m.

Louise Mezzina, Partner at Mojo PR based in Dubai, explains CEO and Creative Director Huda Kattan’s success: “The region is home to the world’s top beauty blogger Huda Kattan. Her honest reviews, multi-step how-to tutorials and bare-all beauty truths have garnered a massive following across the globe.

“But she is not alone. The Middle East has no shortage of beauty and lifestyle influencers sharing their routines, hacks and a fearless experimental approach to non-invasive and invasive beauty procedures.”

“From brow microblading to face shaving and micro-needling, Middle East beauty influencers are prepared to try it all on behalf of their followers,” adds Mezzina.

“And influencers move product too. Kuwait-based e-commerce beauty platform Boutiqaat works directly with influencers to curate their own baskets.

“Their endorsement can often result in a product selling out, giving brands tangible metrics on the an influencer’s effectiveness.

“That’s why, Middle East beauty bloggers command some of the highest fees in the industry.”

Jarmalaite adds: “Beauty bloggers like Huda Kattan, Model Roz or Maya Ahmed, play a vital role in increasing beauty and personal care awareness among consumers, especially women, influencing their purchase preferences it colour cosmetics, skin and hair care products.”

In a modest way

Meanwhile, Megan Powell, a consultant at brand strategy firm Butterfly London and speaker on MEA beauty at in-cosmetics, points out that Middle Eastern-inspired ideals are now reaching international audiences.

“There have been some major milestones for Middle Eastern women reaching a global narrative,” she says.

From London’s first Modest Fashion Week to Saudi Arabia’s debut Fashion Week and US model Halima Aden becoming the first hijab-wearing model to land a Vogue cover, there has been a shift in the creative industries.

However, Powell argues that the Western beauty industry still has a long way to go when it comes to fully embracing women wearing the hijab.

©as published by Cosmetic Business