Light Fantastic - the popularity of Laser and IPL

Laser and IPL can offer serious profit potential far beyond hair removal. FIONA VLEMMIKS explores the capabilities of this versatile tech

The popularity of laser and IPL for hair removal has been steadily growing, but many salons and spas are now moving beyond the staple hair removal business to harness the full potential of these powerful machines.

Although laser comes with initial financial outlay, results are fast – both for the client and the salon. For those who are yet to take the plunge, or are considering expanding their existing aesthetic services, laser or IPL can differentiate your treatment menu beyond the realms of hair removal – and provide a fast return on investment through cosmetic skin treatments that can improve the appearance of everything from wrinkles, pigmentation and vascular lesions, to acne and fungal nail infections.

Skin rejuvenation

A viable alternative or accompaniment to injectables, laser skin rejuvenation stimulates, rejuvenates and tightens skin by promoting collagen and fibroblast activity deep within the skin cell structure, causing long-lasting results. Moreover, with minimal discomfort and downtime, laser skin rejuvenation can be incorporated into existing facials to create a bespoke element, or as a standalone session. Ian Hallam, company director and head of training and clinical support at Cosmedico, explains the benefits for skin rejuvenation: “A selected wavelength of 510-950nm is gently pulsed onto the skin while gliding the head-piece over the area to be treated. The client feels a gradual warming of the skin but without the traditional flicks/ pings of laser or IPL.”

Acne

Laser and IPL can also provide the competitive edge when it comes to assisting clients with problem skin. Chanele Rosa, clinical specialist at laser and IPL expert Ellipse, suggests using two wavelengths to treat active acne, depending on the severity. “The wavelength of 530-750nm can be used for active acne by targeting the porphyrins in the skin, helping to reduce future breakouts and overproduction of sebum. The wavelength of 400nm- 720nm is used with a photo spray in our Photodynamic treatments, further enhancing the treatment.” A course of treatments, roughly four per month, is typically recommended and demonstrably effective for those with paler skins (types one to four). However, client expectations must be managed. The therapy treats the symptoms of acne, rather than curing it, so clients taking any form of antibiotics or Roacutane to treat acne will be contraindicated.

Pigmentation

“Many people from their late-twenties onwards suffer from premature ageing in the form of uneven skin tone and abnormal hyperpigmentation, largely due to exposure to harmful UV rays and other lifestyle factors such as smoking,” says Dr Samantha Hills, clinical director at Lynton Lasers, which manufactures a wide range of laser and IPL machines. “When it comes to treating pigmentation, success is generally greater on fairer skin types (Fitzpatrick type 1 to 3) due to the greater risk of post-inflammatory hypo or hyper-pigmentation in darker skins. While superficial pigmentation often only needs one treatment, pigmented birthmarks might need between three to six treatments to see good clearance, advises Hills. “Some small, superficial pigmented lesions such as freckles and lentigines (age spots or sunspots) can also be thermally destroyed using a high-powered Intense Pulsed Light system or a long-pulsed Alexandrite laser,” she adds. Though correct diagnosis of the pigmented lesion is essential before any treatment, and any unusual lesions should always be biopsied and diagnosed by a dermatologist.

Thread veins

Although larger veins may require sclerotherapy, the smaller, unsightly thread of spider veins (vascular lesions) that might plague many of your clients can be significantly reduced with laser treatments. “Thread veins can be treated in a relatively short time scale – averaging two to four treatments – although this will depend on the types of vessels being treated,” explains Susan Forster, head of clinical training, aesthetics division at ABC Lasers, which distributes the Alma Harmony xl Pro system suitable for treating vascular lesions, tattoo removal, pigmentation and for performing skin remodeling, among its range of machines. The technology works by destroying blood vessels. “The process uses light to heat up the vessel in order to coagulate the blood to collapse the vessel, which the body will then eliminate over a period of a few days to a few weeks,” says Forster. The treatment is only suitable for lighter skins (Fitzpatrick one to three). “Realistic expectations need to be set at the initial consultation,” continues Forster. “Due to the nature of the vascular system, the excellent results achieved may need to be maintained with further top up treatments if new veins develop.” Nonetheless, laser treatment for thread or spider veins can yield a quick and gratifying return, an average full-face treatment taking just 15-20 minutes. “With each client requiring on average two to four treatments there is clear opportunity for a quick return of investment.”

Milia and skin tags

Clients’ troublesome milia and skintags can also be treated with laser. “The form of laser generally used is the Er:YAG, at a wavelength 2940 nm,” says Sarah McNulty, head of training at Advanced Esthetics Solutions. “This non-ablative treatment selectively vapourises the epidermis, leaving the surrounding tissue outside the treatment zone undamaged.Another laser option for milia and unblocking pores is q-switched Nd:YAG, applied to carbon paste. This softens hard nodules trapped beneath dead skin cells, gently resurfacing, healing and improving the texture. The treatment requires little down time and the condition is best managed with suitable homecare – McNulty recommends an AHA cleanser, corrective serum, and vitamin A cream – providing retail opportunities for your business.

Decision time

Like any buying decision, there are numerous variables to consider when investing in laser & IPL equipment. Hills advises; “Look for a company with credentials that suit you. This could be as simple as the level of training they provide with their equipment, or perhaps the post-purchase support they can offer.” While the financial outlay can be daunting, crunching the numbers will forecast future earnings. Any new investment carries some risk and a well-researched business plan is essential, but, with laser and IPL, there is also great potential for growth.